We found the perfect sourdough pizza – in Betty’s Bay

Running a restaurant in a small holiday town can be a tricky business (seasonal clientele and all), but when chatting to Stefan Roos, chef and owner of Koring n Kaf in Betty’s Bay, it quickly becomes clear how he solved this particular riddle: he’s pretty much a local himself. Having grown up in nearby Somerset West and spending practically all his holidays in Betty’s – where his parents bought a holiday house early on – Stefan says he has “always dreamed of living and working in Betty’s”. And now, here we are.

Koring n Kaf (the name means “wheat and chaff” in Afrikaans and references the eatery’s focus on sourdough baking) has become a wildly popular Overberg destination and, unsurprisingly, was recently nominated as an Eat Out Neighbourhood Gem by several top chefs. It took a while to get here, of course. First, there was chef school in Hermanus, followed by stints at top-rated kitchens including Terroir in Stellenbosch and Thali in Cape Town, before co-launching The Melting Pot in Cape Town (and later in Elgin). Then, one day, Stefan was driving to work from Betty’s Bay and saw an advert for The Hub commercial space in Main Road, sent the owners an email, and set the ball rolling for his own venture.

“We have regulars that return week after week, and they’re the ones who keep the restaurant going throughout the winter months”

Knowing the area and the people well, Stefan thought he knew what would work. “I knew a fine dining spot wouldn’t really fly here,” he says. “We needed something more casual.” Back then, loadshedding was still a big problem. Added to that, Betty’s own electrical infrastructure is massively outdated – it’s not uncommon for the power to go down for days on end. With this in mind, Stefan built his menu around six or seven items that could all be made in a wood-fired oven, a methodology that allowed him to indulge in his love of all things sourdough.

That’s how Koring n Kaf started, and that’s how it’s still running: the whole menu is based on wood-fired cooking. It’s very bread-forward, says Stefan, but there are loads of global influences, and lots of “cheffy” things happening in the kitchen. Those who know swear by the delicious sourdough pizzas, but there are also some great seafood dishes to be had, and popular Friday night curry specials.

For Stefan and his staff, there’s a deep appreciation for the way the locals have embraced the eatery. “We have regulars that return week after week, and they’re the ones who keep the restaurant going throughout the winter months.” There are customers who have become friends, and there’s a privilege of seeing life’s little celebrations play out in the restaurant.

Apart from the fabulous food and the great local drinks list, it’s clear that diners also just really like the vibe. You have the warmth from the wood-fired oven, the fact that you can see the food being made, the friendly reception, and the laid-back atmosphere. “It’s straightforward, but still sophisticated,” says Stefan. “We’ve got lots of foodies here and loads of wine lovers. It’s a great community,” he confirms.

Would he ever expand? Open another Koring n Kaf somewhere else? Probably not, admits Stefan. He likes the intimacy of his 30-seater restaurant. And he already has the deli, Kafee, next door, for some great sourdough sarmies. “The dough is the thing,” he says. “Sourdough is so unpredictable, I need to be there to monitor it. If I’m not there, on the premises, it becomes just another average restaurant.” Words to live by, for any chef, we would imagine – and certainly a deciding factor for this excellent spot.